MODERN CLASSIC
Modern / Classic is a series of vdeo portraits exploring some of the best rock climbing on offer in Australia’s Blue Mountains.
From the short bouldery power routes to long enduro pumpers, the Blue Mountains has it all!
Featuring some of the best local talent, these videos are a candid insight into Blue Mountais rock climbing and a thriving UPPERMTNS scene.
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Jake Bresnehan // Alpha Leather.
Alpha Leather is a short, 12 meter climb, at Centennial Glen in the Blue Mountains.
Bolted by Mike Law in the early 90’s, Alpha Leather was finally climbed by Garth Miller in 1999. Today it is a “must do classic” for those into hard sport climbing.
In this story, Jake Bresenhan explains his first experience with the climb and the “full meathead” that inspired him to give it a crack!
Lee Cujes // Pit Boss.
The Pit is a relatively new addition to the Blue Mountains sport climbing scene. Hidden away in a steep gully, its difficult access meant it was undeveloped until local climbers worked out a suitable approach… Abseil in / via ferrata out.
Today it has one of the largest concentrations of steep rock climbing in the Blue Mountains, ranging from grade 25 through to grade 30…with a couple of harder lines as well.
Pit Boss, the most recent addition to the crag, blasts out the steep roof through a series of foot free campus moves.
Big holds. Big moves. Big fun!
Get on it!!
Doug McConnell // Death From Above.
Not far from the Blue Mountains, hidden deep in a prehistoric valley is an amazing sandstone arch known as the Pterodactyl Cave.
Discovered by Doug McConnell and Chris Coppard, the arch features some super steep climbing through this spectacular feature.
Death From Above is a rising traverse that follows a single line of holds up the back side of the arch, creating a truly unique climb.
Jack Masel // Pooferator.
Pooferator is an awesome power endurance test piece for the Blue Mountains. While not particularly long, its climbing is super consistent meaning you really need to hold on from ground to top! There are no free moves on this one!
In this film, Jack Masel shows us exactly why this route has become such a classic over the years. Small holds, big moves, awesome location..Pooferator certainly packs it in!
Inalee Jahn // Don’t Believe the Tripe.
Don’t Believe The Tripe at Boronia Point in the Blue Mountains is arguably THE 29 / 8a of the Mountains.
It’s a classic long endurance route that saves its hardest moves for the very end, meaning people often fall near the top, but Inalee broke a new high point with her red point fall at the top top! Ooops!
Next shot though, she clipped the chains and bagged her first 29..crushed it!
Warning..If you cant crimp…don’t even try this sequence. It doesn’t go!
Luke Hansen // Bandula.
Bandula 32 / 8b+ is one of the many King Lines that Elphinstone has to offer.
It has a bit of everything..technical face climbing, steep moves through a roof, beautiful easy sections of continuous climbing and then the crux... a series of hard compression moves that lead to the powerful and committing head wall, finally finishing at the very top of the cliff!
Full value for sure!
Josh Menal // Moonshadow.
At 14, Josh climbed his first 29 / 8a. Now, two years later he has climbed three 33 / 8cs including this one, Moonshadow.
Moonshadow is a route in Centennial Glen, Blue Mountains. It links the bouldery Levitation (29/8a) into the start of the even more bouldery Search and Destroy (32/8b+). While the route is pretty short in length, it certainly packs it in with "8 to 10 moves of pure on!!"
Luke Hansen // Fantastic Mr. Fox.
Pre lockdown, Luke Hansen set his sights on the Diamond Falls classic, Fantastic Mr. Fox, 33 / 8C'.
Ben Cossey's description for his route is nearly as good as the climb itself:
"Ever imagined what the best route in the cosmos would be like?...wonder no longer and get yourself down to DF today! The most technical, fingery, tensiony, positiony, brain flaking hard route around. There is no route better. FA: Ben Cossey, 2006"
It's true, this is one awesome climb, it's just a bummer Luke didn't get to put it in the bag before relocating to Melbourne...but he'll be back!
Filmed on some perfect winter afternoons before the lockdown hit.
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